Separating And Replanting Plants On The Bank Of The Pond

Garden ponds, like the plants used to decorate them, have a special charm. The landscaping of the pond brings its "results" in just a few months, and the transformation of the shorelines and shallow stars never stops. In this closed and so isolated biosphere, the interrelations and interactions of the individual elements among themselves create a striking harmony. But the active development of most crops by the pond sooner or later still leads to the need to adjust plantings, divide and transplant plants. But there is nothing difficult in this process.

Separating and replanting plants on the bank of the pond
Decorative plants near the pond. © goodearthoutdoor

Decorative plants near favorite garden ponds is one of the pleasant bonuses waiting for anyone who decides to make a pond on his plot. Regardless of the style of design, lushness or brevity of landscaping and even a "set" of plants for shoreline vegetation is characterized by one very pleasant feature - plants after planting fairly quickly reach the optimal size and begin to perform their functions. Not lacking in moisture and not suffering from heat, pond vegetation is indeed a pleasant surprise with its growth rate in most of its cases. So, if you use not too small seedlings and divisions in the process of gardening pond already after a couple of months does not look like a new and not yet sprawling object, but as a full-fledged site decoration. Plants need some time to take root and adapt, but then they grow very intensively. Pond herbs, such as the small cattail or reed grass, and flowering perennials such as elder, coreopsis, merlin, lily of the valley and ryegrass have a fast growth rate. Plantings on the shore of the pond "merge" literally in front of our eyes.

The active growth and development of plants, typical for the design of shorelines, there is a downside. Due to their rapid growth and expansion, the plants not only quickly achieve the desired decorative effect of the planting, but also lead just as quickly to the problem of spreading, overgrowth and the need to rejuvenate the planting. After a while (usually a period of 2-5 years), plants begin to compete with each other, "argue" for territory, close each other from the light, the leaders-aggressors get ahead, and the more "gentle" and not so active plants can stop blooming and lose their decorativeness. Many herbaceous perennials lose some of their turf as they age, while others become loose and lose their shape. The problem of overgrowth is usually not unique to shorelines (from wetland to "dry" plantings on the shore itself). If you grow aquatic plants in a basket, it is much easier to contain and correct them. Yes, and so they will not be able to sprawl thanks to the very method of planting. But on the shore, at the first signs of the need for transplanting and separation, it is better to take appropriate measures immediately. Focus on the appearance of planting: any feeling of neglect, disorder, sloppiness, loss of expression or atypical deterioration and lack of flowering are all signs that it is time to get to work.

For some reason, many gardeners believe that the process of rejuvenation and separation of plants by the pond is much harder than a similar procedure on flower beds. In practice, it is usually even the opposite. When working with shorelines, there are general principles and norms of work, which allow you to never make a mistake and not to lose a single crop.

First of all, in no case consider the planting as a single unit. Even if you need to divide most of the plants, it is worth taking an individual approach to them. On shorelines, and in the case of shallow water and water stars, do not dig out and divide plants all at once. Work only with those plants or areas of the pond that really need control and repotting. Even if the plants are strongly intertwined with each other, forming a seemingly complete mess (often "crawling" and mixed with other plants such groundcovers as auga creeping and its colleagues), it is still necessary to separate them from each other and work with each plant separately. Dugging is also needed for loss of decorativeness, need for rejuvenation, problems with flowering (if there are no other possible reasons), and if some plants oppress others.

Separating and replanting plants on the bank of the pond
Dense plantings of ornamental plants near the pond.

Dig up all the plants one by one, and the tangled ones in a single solid mass, which will be put in order after digging. There is nothing difficult in this process itself:

  1. Use a sharp shovel to pick up the layer of soil with the rhizome. Try to avoid injury to the roots and dig the plant out gently. Since the plant will already be damaged in the splitting process, careless digging can turn into a disaster or at least the loss of parts of the plant. So don't rush anywhere and act carefully and for sure.
  2. Place the dug up plants near the pond in a shady spot where they are easy to handle.
  3. Prepare a sharp knife that you can use to cut through the dense turf.
  4. Gently hand clean the dug up plants of plant debris and weeds. Separate plants that have become entwined with each other and have lost their appearance into separate "clean" fragments. Do this procedure carefully, trying to injure the roots as little as possible.
  5. See the bushes and divide them into two categories - crops that need rejuvenation (1) or just simple separation (2).
  6. Plants which do not flower well or have stopped flowering altogether need rejuvenation: divide them into several large pieces with strong root bunches and several buds of renewal, using a knife or by hand. It is also worth removing weakened or damaged, diseased plants, leaving the strongest in those crops that have spread out and "scattered" over large areas.
  7. Separate the resulting planting material. If in the process of dividing there are many small divisions or even individual stems and "offspring" left, which will take a very long time to create attractive bushes and shrubs, it is better to gather them into one group, creating a spot, which will become attractive in a few months already. Group crops that don't look good alone and get lost to plant them as a whole spot to create a beautiful pond decoration. Don't aim to use all the divisions you have: Leave as many plants as you really need, taking into account the optimum distance to their neighbors and planting density. Feel free to use any extra plants in other parts of the garden, in mobile arrangements and ponds, in flower beds and in planters. Or share them with your neighbors and acquaintances - they will certainly be happy to add to their collection and may even swap their favorites with you.
  8. If you have many cuttings left during the division of herbaceous perennials, do not throw them away: you can plant them and in special greenhouses in the garden, and in containers, and even on a small plot here, on the bank of the pond. After rooting, you will have a large number of strong seedlings, which you can use at your discretion.

Take care immediately of the soil, empty after digging plants. Add fresh soil, organic fertilizers (such as horn shavings and compost) to the soil, and sand or peat if needed to adjust the composition and texture. Loosen and level the site so that you can then plant new plants on it immediately. In places where you will plant crops with too aggressive temperament, prone to survive their neighbors and suppress your favorite flowering plants, immediately install limiters - dig screens that will not let the beautiful aggressors go beyond certain limits.

Separating and replanting plants on the bank of the pond
Decorative plants near the pond. © hedgehogstreet

The planting process itself is the same as when landscaping a pond. You need to carefully check plant preferences, especially for planting depth and spacing of bushes. But there are peculiarities in transplanting: you should start with the crops that suffered from the aggressiveness of other plants, those perennials that you "saved" in the first place and that suffered more than the others. The better condition the plant was in (and the stronger it was), the later it can be transplanted.

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