From among indoor exotics pavonia is one of the most uncommon. But not because of extreme capriciousness, but due to the fact that plants are sold very rarely. Pavonia is difficult to propagate, and they cost quite a lot. But the year-round spectacular flowering, and the endurance, fully compensate for this disadvantage. Pavonia are delicate, showy, quivering evergreens that fit perfectly into modern interiors and can rightfully claim to be the "highlight" of any collection.
Diversity of Pavonia and its spectacular appearance
The genus Pavonia is more than extensive. About two hundred plant species are grouped under the common name, but only two plants are grown in room and greenhouse culture. While the lance-like pavonia is rare, the multiflora claims to be one of the most exclusive exotics.
Pavonia (Pavonia) is a genus of flowering plants in the Malvaceae family.
Pavonia multiflora (Pavonia multiflora) is a magnificent room shrub from the Malvaceae family. We continue to distribute this plant sometimes under a synonym - Triplochlamys multiflora. But since Triplochlamys multiflora is not considered as a separate plant genus for a very long time, and the name is much less revealing of beauty than the legal name "pavonia", its use is inexpedient. Even today, pavonia are considered rare and "prestigious" plants. They are rarely found on sale, because of the difficulties of selection and mass breeding cost a lot. But each modest bush, which is brought home, quickly adapts and surprises by both growth and abundance of flowers (they bloom in such numbers that it seems as if the plant is happy to stop treatment with growth inhibitors).
Pavonia can be very different in height. Their size depends largely on both the growing conditions and whether they were treated with special inhibitors at the initial stage of cultivation. On average, pavonia reach 50 cm-1 m, though they can reach 1.5 m when mature. They are evergreen shrubs. The shoots are pubescent or glabrous, the leaves are narrow and entire, somewhat reminiscent of the lanceolate and large version of citrus and laurel leaves. The coloration is neutral, medium green, but the bright gloss on the surface gives them incredible beauty. The leaves can be either solid or heavily serrated along the edge, reach 20 cm long and 5 cm wide, the lower surface is rough.
Pavonia flowers, located on the tops of shoots, look more than exotic. Located in the axils of the leaves on long pedicels, they consist of elongated, linear-shaped sepals arranged in two rows. The outer "petals" are shorter, of an unusual fuchsia-purple, rich color. It contrasts beautifully with the purple-purple color of the corolla, the inner side of the petals in which is also quite bright, but does not appear immediately. From afar, the flowers resemble miniature, graceful tulips with narrow petals, and only up close can the purple core and all the singularity of the plant be seen. The originality of the blossoms more than compensates for the limited red-violet character of the plant
Pavonia lance-like (Pavonia hastata) is a very different plant in character. It has triangular at the base, tapered to the edge dark leaves that are only 5-6 cm long. The flowers are reminiscent of mallows, garden stem roses. White, funnel-shaped, with a maroon or red yawn, they are limited to 5 cm in diameter, but look much more imposing and "classic".
Pavonia multiflorum is one of those indoor plants that can bloom literally all year round. Due to the fact that pavonia does not require a cool winter, it is relatively easy to grow. Pavonia in general can not be attributed to the capricious plants, but it needs very careful selection of conditions. And the care of the plant should be careful, attentive, accompanied by constant control of the plant and careful observation of the humidity of the substrate.
Lighting for pavonia
This rare but rather demanding room beauty belongs to light-loving plants. The slightest shading in Pavonia causes not only absence of flowering, but also unattractive elongation, partial or complete shedding of leaves. Pavonia can be placed only in the brightest places in the house, even in sunny locations. It is not afraid of southern orientation and suffers little or no direct sunlight. It is the maximum light exposure that is the key (and the main guarantee) that the pavonia will bloom relentlessly almost all year round. In winter, it is better to illuminate the pavonia or move it so that the light intensity does not change.
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Comfortable temperature regime
Pavonia can be ranked among the most heat-loving indoor crops. Even in winter, when light levels are reduced and all plants are content with little, pavonia will not tolerate figures below 15 degrees of heat. During the warm season, from the beginning of March to the end of September, pavonia is most comfortable in normal room temperatures of 18 to 22 degrees. If you manage to protect the plant from excessive heat, it will thankfully respond with more rapid flowering. In the fall, it is best to lower the temperature to 18 degrees Celsius in optimum and keep it that way until the following March. But if the ranges vary toward warmer temperatures, the pavonia won't suffer too much. It will just need more frequent watering and more careful observation, with correction of conditions at the slightest sign of discomfort.
Pavonia very much dislikes drafts, even warm ones. It is better to protect this plant from too active air currents during airing of rooms, but the airing itself should be made as often as possible.
Pouring and Humidity
Humidity is one of the most difficult parameters for Pavonia. It's not that this beauty likes high values. Here it's just the opposite: pavonia likes moderation so much that both high humidity and too dry air are equally harmful to it. With central heating systems without compensation for the drying effect, the plant can drop its leaves, but also greenhouse, tropical conditions pavonia does not need.
To maintain an average, comfortable humidity, it is worth spraying the leaves, trying in no case get on the flowers or place the plant on trays with moist pebbles, moss, expanded clay. Comprehensive measures to increase humidity pavonia is not necessary. Spraying should be more intensive if the air temperature in the room exceeds its favorite moderate ranges.
Similar preferences are typical for pavonia in watering. It does not tolerate and stagnant moisture, and complete drying of the earth's rump. Watering should be moderate, constantly monitored, regulated by checking the degree of drying of the substrate. Rare and strong watering is better replaced by more frequent, but restrained. The top layer of substrate must dry out between procedures. Water is drained after 10-15 minutes, not allowing it to stagnate.
Winter regime of watering the plant is transferred to a September, making the procedures more rare: after the drying of the top layer of soil, Pavonia not watered for 2-3 days more.
And for spraying and for watering you can use only water of room temperature, soft and standing water.
Fertilizers for pavonia
Fertilizers for this culture are better to carry out throughout the year, not stopping them from September to February, but just making them very weak. During the active period, Pavonia is fertilized 2 times a month. For this beauty it is better to use special complex fertilizers for flowering indoor crops.
Pavonia is prone to elongation, and to maintain compactness it is better to prune by shortening the shoots to thicken and form bushlets. The best time is right after flowering. A very important secret in growing pavonia is to stop watering after pruning until the shoots go into growth.
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Transplanting and substrate
As for most exotics, pavonia needs transplanting only as needed, and it is not necessary to change the container until the roots will not braid the ground ball completely.
The classical transplant dates suit pavonia. In spring, the plant is transplanted into a larger pot. The level of deepening cannot be changed. Drainage on the bottom is laid necessarily, using coarse materials.
This plant prefers neutral, with a pH of about 6.0, very light and nutritious substrates. For pavonia, a soil mixture based on sod soil, in which ¾ of the leaf soil and ¼ each of humus and sand are added.
Diseases and pests
In room conditions, pavonia is most threatened by aphids and spider mites. The problems must be dealt with by complex methods, combining increasing humidity and isolation from the rest of the crop with treatment of the plant with insecticides.
Chlorosis, which occurs when using poor quality water, is also dangerous for Pavonia.
Prevalent problems in growing Pavonia
- bud dropping when feeding is poor, substrate dries out or at low temperatures;
- no flowering when watering incorrectly, using nitrogen fertilizers, too hot conditions during wintering;
- drooping, leaf wilting when drought.
This abundant and original plant is considered difficult to propagate. The only method used for pavonia is the rooting of apical cuttings. They can be cut from spring to the end of summer. But the percentage of rooting is quite low, and it takes so much time that ordinary amateur flower growers cannot breed pavonia independently.
The shoots can only take root in hot conditions, with air temperature from 30 to 35 degrees, with phytohormone treatment not only in the initial stage, but also during all the long months of rooting. And even if you manage to get roots, this is no guarantee that you will get a complete plant. Because cuttings grow as a single trunk, it is hard to get side branches to emerge, even with regular pruning.
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